Odds 'n' Ends: Final Notes on Our NZ Adventures

Doesn't look like much in terms of size, but regarding opportunities it's enormous!

Roadmap of our trip. Follow the numbers to connect the dots.

Our Roadmap: Where We Went

The map above shows our routes. As you can see, we backtracked quite a bit - some of which couldn't be helped. We were based out of Queenstown, and started out heading north due to poor weather in the Milford Sound. We could have taken a different route from Franz Josef to Queenstown, but it would have added 5 hours' driving time. So we backtracked through Haast. From Queenstown we headed for Milford Sound, which is an out-and-back trip from Te Anau. Then we went south.

We covered Central Otago region, West Coast, Fiordlands, and Southland. Yet, we didn't even scratch the surface. The roads are very much like those of the US in the 1940s-50s before the development of our interstate freeways. They are windy and mostly two lanes. Driving speeds max out at 100 km/hr (62 miles/hr). So it was relatively slow going. But, it was beautiful everywhere we went.

Kristie & Chad's New Zealand Top 10

10. Complimentary jug of milk that came with all our rooms. Heck yes! 
9. Bruiser Rainbows
8. Traffic was no problem (outside of Queenstown).
7. Kiwi hospitality & the kindness of strangers.
6. The lack of deadly predators - no venomous snakes, gators, mountain lions, bears. In terms of wildlife, the only things native to the island are birds and bats.
5. NZ Department of Conservation (DOC). Very helpful and resourceful. 
4. NZ keeps it local - much of their energy comes from wind and water. They make their own wines, cheese, milk, wool, and have some of the best lamb and eggs on the planet.
3. New Zealand wine. My, oh, my, what fine wines you have.
2. The diversity of the landscape.
1. Epic hiking!

 

Things We Could Have Done Without:

*Sand flies! Our legs are eaten up!
*Wireless networks outside the cities were slow and not always available. Though - this was a blessing in a way...it meant we couldn't be glued to our phones. 

What We'd Do Next Time: 

*Explore the northwest and northern coast (sea kayaking the Abel-Tasman area), and Lake Tekapo area.
*A day or two in Queenstown doing the luge or shotover jet through the canyon.
*An entire tramp (Abel-Tasman Track, Milford track or Routeburn track). This would require some planning ahead. ;)

What We Got Right:

*Flexibility in our itinerary (although, this was also a challenge at times)
*The weather was remarkably good for much of our trip - a huge bonus.
*Our open minds & curiosity took us above and beyond the tourist spots. 
*We saved a load of money by staying in our van for about half the trip, cooking our breakfasts, snacking for lunch, and eating our backpacker meals for dinners. Otherwise, NZ can be costly.

Trip Stats: 

*Hiked a total of 35 miles (estimate) to 2 glaciers, wetlands, coastal areas, subtropic areas, fiordlands, mountain terrain.
*Drove 1,282 miles (2,064 km)
*40 g Chili Powder (obviously)
*10 backpacker meals
*1 jar of peanut butter
*3/4 jar of Nutella (gifted to us by a German traveler - some stereotypes hold true)

Kudos to the following resources:

*DOC website. Very useful in planning any outdoor adventures
*Campermate app was great in helping locate holiday parks, campgrounds, and things to do in the areas we were traveling to (although, internet was often inaccessible or too slow).
*New Zealand Frenzy (Scott Cook): We used this book a lot on our trip. Very useful (and entertaining) guide.
*I-Sites: Pretty much every town you go to you can get a map of the area from any I-site or hotel
*Top Ten Holiday Parks

*** That's all, folks. 
The honeymoon is officially over. 

I wonder what our next adventure will be? ***

Order and Chaos in Small Spaces

Kristie Post:

Traveling with anyone in a camper van presents challenges. Chad and I managed to lose something everyday of our trip. And as soon as we accepted the loss, we’d find the missing item, only to lose something else. This was frazzling for me, and anyone who has lived or shared small spaces with me is shaking their heads. I function on Order. My surroundings don’t have to be spic ‘n’ span, but they must be in order. On this trip, however, my system often fell to pieces. This is where Chaos (Chad’s system) came through – when I allowed it. Somehow, Chad carelessly casts items aside, and for the most part, when he needs them, they appear (after some rummaging). I’ve known several people in my life who use this system with similar results. My former boss and owner of Cedar City’s finest gift/novelty shop, Sally, always seemed to have some vital bit of information scribbled onto a scratch piece of paper that was floating around the shop. She could inexplicably locate these scraps with amazing precision among the stacks of paperwork and merchandise. My best friend, Kelsey, always seems to be surprised by finding a long lost chap stick or money she’d misplaced. My sweet mother’s purse seems to have whatever contents you should desire (albeit, it may take a moment to dig it out). I have come to respect and admire this system. By the end of our trip, Chad and I came to an unspoken understanding wherein our two systems of Order and Chaos were able to coexist. Sometimes, the Chaos works. 

Here's a video demonstrating the order and chaos. This was how we spent our last night in Queenstown. Cleaning up the van and our gear, and packing everything. The video still doesn't really convey how truly messy it was.
Our luggage weight limit was 25 kg. Each of our bags weighed in at 24.5 kg. We didn't even have a scale.

A Dip in the Tasman Sea, and a Slop through the Mucky Muck

Kristie Post: Tuesday


Big water scares me. Perhaps it’s because I hail from the high desert? Most likely it stems from an incident I had as a child swimming in the Pacific ocean when I got swept in an undertow? I really don't like having most of my body dangling in an environment I cannot see. I stand on the beach of this calm little cove and consider dipping my toes in, but hold back. I find myself feeling small and powerless by the enormity and roar of the ocean (but, give me a peak or a mountain saddle, and I’m larger than life.) Chad, however, is thrilled by the ocean. He wakes up this morning, and decides he can’t miss the opportunity to swim in the Tasman Sea. The water is cold, and without a wet suit, he is only able to take a quick dip. But, we makes the best of it. He crashes into the waves unrestrained and smiling even as the shock of cold straightens his spine. He howls and laughs like a child. I can’t help but feel I’m missing out, but tell myself another day...Watching his joy is enough for me.

We check out of the cottage, and start out on our day. It’s the last full day of fun before we make our way back to Queenstown to prepare for our departure. We decide we miss the tramping, and go on what is touted as “the finest day hike in all the Catlins.” There are only rolling hills around us, but this 2.5 hr hike is said to take us to two waterfalls. The weather is actually nice today after intermittent storming the last few days. We expected to trudge through some mud, but as we enter the bush, we find ourselves on a slippery slop through the muckiest muck. 

This was the muckiest hike I've ever done. Luckily for you, you get the scenery without the muck!

Chad in the thick of it.

With a lot of cursing and grunting, we get to the waterfalls. They are separated by about 100 meters, and very different from each other. 

 

Chad's classic tree pose. Tricky on the mossy rocks.

They are splendid, but our enjoyment of them is dampened by the walk back through the muddy jungle. This "hike" would have been better enjoyed prior to the rain, and certainly before we had already tackled the much more impressive tramps of our trip. How spoiled I must sound.

We make it back to the van, and don't even bother cleaning our shoes, which now have mud caked into every cranny of the soles. We throw them in the van, which has taken on not only our stink, but all the stink of a thousand hippies before us. Lord, it is rank. We roll down the windows and head off to the final viewpoints of the southern coast – the first is Slope Point. We came to the parking area, which was already packed with visitors. We have grown weary of tourist spots like this, and decide that it isn't worth a 20 min walk to get a photo with a sign marking the southernmost point of New Zealand’s south island. We drive on to view the overlook about a quarter mile down the road. We pass huddled groups of torturous trees that have grown sideways from consistent antarctic winds that sweep off the coast. These trees are remarkable. 

Trees near Slope Point.

Pastoral scene.

Chad outside the trees

Kristie inside the trees

We enjoyed the view by ourselves, and drive to a nearby lighthouse, where we walk down to the beach and come upon a few sea lions lazing about. Chad hates the things, and I laugh at them. How awkward a creature. There were two males and one female. The males started barking and posturing at each other to establish dominance, but after wobbling at each other in a challenge, they seemed to tire out and give up.Ha! Ridiculous. 

What majesty! King of the beach.

A little cuddle.

 

 

Sheep, More Sheep, and Penguins

Kristie Post
Monday (Chad has already written an entry for the day, but here's how I see it....)

We're staying in the southernmost part of the island known as the Catlins. We drove her from Te Anau on the southwest coast via the "Scenic Southern Route," which we were told is especially gorgeous and worth a bit more time than the more direct roads. The landscape in the Catlins is really different from anywhere else we've been on the island. We've traded the mountains for green, rolling hills that stretch to the horizon. And, of course, LOTS of sheep. It seems like the type of landscape one would expect to find in Ireland. It's pretty, but I'm already missing the fiordlands, glacier hikes, and mountains. I'm impressed, however, by the diversity of such a small island.

We book ourselves last minute at a quirky cottage right on Porpoise Bay in the southern tip of the island. We're done van camping. The beach here is pristine.On the other side of this cove begins a coastal petrified forest - mineralized wood stumps and logs strewn about chaotically.

One of Chad's goals for the trip was to see a penguin. This beach is home to one of the rarest types of penguins - the Yellow Eyed Penguin. Each evening around sunset, the penguins pop out of the sea, and march through the petrified forest to the hillside, where they spend the night and care for their young. We get to the ancient beach and speak to one of the rangers roaming around. He tells us there are only around six penguins in the colony here, but that only two have been spotted recently on their nightly journey back from the sea. We quickly discover this has become quite the spectacle - for both tourists and locals alike. As sunset approaches there are nearly 50 or so of us who have come to witness this homecoming. We wait and watch the sky. It is twilight. The sky now a powdery pink, and the pools in the cove are aglow. Not many seem to notice, impatiently awaiting the arrival of the penguins. 

Curio Bay at Twilight

Finally, a single penguin pops out of the sea. It stands erect before the crowds for a moment, then begins preening itself, sorting it's feathers. The ranger informed us earlier that this is vital for their survival on land. With cameras in hand, the crowd creeps closer, hoping for a better shot - even though the sun has already set and the low lighting will likely produce dismal results. I stay where I am and watch the spectacle. But, wait! Another one appears on the other end of the bay! This one has much further to waddle, and must pass through the crowd to get home. Half the crowd abandons the first penguin, and closes in on the new arrival. The information panel informed us that these creatures get stressed by contact with humans, and yet, here we are obstructing their nightly march back home. I can't help but feel bothered by this, and a little ashamed as a participant. I am reminded of a scientific theory known as the Observer Effect, which states that the mere act of observing something changes it. This can certainly be seen here, and in tourism in general. Makes me wonder what this place will look like in another ten years. What will become of these adorable and rare creatures? I take a picture from where I stand. Chad and I make our way back to the cottage, walking along the beach. As the crowds behind us gather, the clouds above us part - and the southern constellations start taking shape. It is the Southern Cross, not the northern star, which orients us. We recognize Orion by his bejeweled belt. The other stars and constellations are unknown to us, but we are grateful for their brilliance. Chad makes a fire in the wood-burning stove, than cooks eggs for our last backpacker meal of the trip. We eat happily, and are soon lulled to sleep by the sound of fire and water.

The Road

It's been a while since my mind has been so free of life's obligations.  My best time for reflection on life has always been during quite times either in wilderness or on the road.  It's great to be able to spend so much time with my wife. 

We woke early and I run down to the service station and leave our tire to get it plugged, come back and head down for breakfast at our B and B pub...this was the heartiest and best breakfast we've had.  Big Boy real Bacon, two poached eggs, coffee, orange juice, toast....all included in the room price from Mag, the part Maori owner.

We clean up and leave.  I get down to the station and request to use a "proper jack".  They let me pull in and give me access to the shop...I think partially to see how I handle myself with their equipment....

Tire is changed and the service guys come out and start to bullshitting....we get told about the best coffee in the south and get wished well upon our way.  On the road we find an old abandoned part of a town.  Kristie takes pictures. 

An unmade bed in a ghost town.

We then find the coffee shop.  Even though I am full from breakfast I order a sausage roll.  Kristie and I have found so many things to do on this vacation that we have not spent any money on restaurants, so I need to make up for it, hungry or full I will do my best to eat.

The Sausage Roll. (i.e., mom's meat loaf wrapped in puff pastry)

Moment of anticipation.

The view is even more comforting than the sausage roll and coffee we enjoy. This weathered tree makes us grateful to be inside where it's warm and out of the wind.

We drive for two hours in what would be the Midwest of New Zealand...it is lush and green...the farms come slowly up, one after another in the rolling hills...there are many trees and many creeks...it is a soothing place to drive through.  It reminds me of a time long ago...a time when I could spend days on the lake swimming or I could drive for hours contemplating life without wondering what is the next move to get ahead.  This is very peaceful.

Kristie's stomach hurt a bit, probably from the milk in the B and B fridge, which I did not drink, so we pulled over by a river and I fished for half an hour.  I caught a small brown on a streamer, Kristie rested, it was good.  I came back and Kristie felt better so we kept going, down through Invercargill going to Curio Bay. We stop at a beach along the way in search of gifts from the ocean, and of course, jade.

Splish, splash.

Shameless warrior pose.

Boys will be boys, and gulls will be gulls.

Collecting gifts from the sea.

These last days decisions have been made by a coin flip.  Heads this, tails that.  We are satisfied with our trip so far, so neither one of us can make a good decision on what to see and what to skip.  The coin told us to go to Curio Bay, a bay which at low tide exposes a petrified Jurassic forest and is a resting place for Yellow Eyed penguins at night.  We make it down to porpoise bay, rent a quirky cottage right on the beach and walk to Curio Bay.  It is way cool - old petrified stumps and fallen logs.

Petrified forest as the tide recedes

Petrified stump

Black Stilt (I think?) forages in the ancient mineralized forest

Petrified log.

Petrified lovers. Aww

I imagine it must have been a big flood to suspend these trees the way they were. The sound of the water, the moisture in the air, the setting sun....everything is perfect.

The crowds gather for the penguins to come ashore.  I am way excited!!! We wait, people are loud, I bet the penguins hate it.  Finally one pops up.  A group of tweens, who previously were throwing rocks and bouncing them across the million year old petrified forest (poor parenting) make a run to the penguins.  They come to shore every night to clean their feathers and tend to their young in the nests.  All the commotion makes me feel bad for the penguins as they are now a spectacle and cannot just be penguins.  We view them from very far away, take a couple of poor photos and decide to beat the crowds and go back to the cottage.  I build a fire in the wood stove and we enjoy the night.  It is so nice to be on the beach.

Yellow Eyed Penguin emerges from the sea, making its way to the hills for the night.