A Flat Tire, and a Scramble in the Scree

Kristie Post: Saturday

We woke up this morning to full cloud cover, a swarm of sand flies* and a flat tire. We have no cell phone service. Chad takes out the spare tire and starts ripping the van apart in search of a jack. He finds it, and starts going to work, however, the jack Jucy provided us was worthless. Luckily, Chad had made friends last night with his big camp fire, and our French neighbors were happy to lend us their jack.

 
He changed the tires (on the list of manliest things one can do), and we headed up to Milford Sound to report the incident to Jucy. The drive to Milford Sound was as amazing as everyone says it is, but we were on a mission, so did not stop much to dawdle as we typically do. Just a few roadside photo ops with this incredible scenery. We get to the Sound and Chad made a call to Jucy headquarters from the Jucy cruise terminal. The rep he spoke with offered little in the way of help or sympathy because we had waved the $40/day insurance and signed the "risk takers" agreement. Whatever. The van fiasco had eaten up half the day, but being risk takers, we decided it wasn't too late for a hike in the valley. Afterall, the weather was perfect now as the clouds dispersed.

Roadside viewpoint of Milford Sound area

Milford sound was waiting for us. We took the obligatory picture on the Sound with Mitre Peak in the background and got back in the van heading for Gertrude Saddle trek.

Here it is! Mitre Peak. We didn't have to work at all for this photo op.

We started off on the Gertrude Saddle trailhead at 2:00 p.m. We tramped, heaved, schlepped and trudged up 1900 vertical feet over 3.6 miles. Honestly, this hike schooled us both. It was the most epic day hike I've ever done. It's typical of the NZ tramps we've experienced so far - steep. We've come to the conclusion that New Zealanders either have no idea what a switchback is, or they just shrugged them off as they made their trails, because these hikes all head straight up the mountain! There were multiple signs alerting hikers to practice extreme caution because there had been multiple deaths on this trail. I guess this is the Kiwi way. 

Gertrude Valley. We have no idea what we are getting ourselves into!

Drinking from glacial pools.

The view is phenomenal, and we're not even at the saddle!

Wobbly tree pose nearing the saddle.

As we approached the top, we were greeted by a view for which I was not emotionally prepared. We looked onto the Milford sound, and even beyond to the Tasman Sea. The glaciated mountains rise thousands of feet out of the water. They are enormous. The Sound is silent, except for the wind rushing all around us. This is the pinnacle of one of the Great Walks of New Zealand, and we got to do it as a day hike!!!

Mostly clear skies on the Gertrude Saddle! The Milford Sound tucked cozily in the mountains, and in the far distance is the Tasman Sea.

Kristie at home in the mountains.

I am both a resident and a traveler in the mountains. I respect them, and as I climb I ask them silently to grant me safe passage. This hike was different. It changed me, if even a little. We lingered at the top for a while before making our way back down. The descent was as difficult as the climb up. Each step was calculated, ab-crunching, knee-jarring. We got to the van safely and drove away in silence. We didn't even know where we were headed. We passed several DOC campsites...I think neither of us could accept another cold, damp night in the van without a shower after the day we'd had. We kept driving, and came upon a group of cabins and a sign "Knob Flat: Vacancy" There was one cabin left, and it came with a hot shower, kitchen with gas range and french press coffee, a heater, and bed. You had me at hot shower. To boot, it is run by the most genial of all Kiwis we'd met so far. He tells us to call him PC. I'm so cold and tired, I can't even muster the energy to inquire about this energetic, quirky fellow. He shows us in, and in the most hospitable way, gives us a tour of our cabin. It's not a lot by 'Merican standards, but it is everything to us. At this point, it may as well be a luxury suite. PC asks what we did today in the Milford Sound. We beam, "We just did the day hike to Gertrude Saddle." He responds, nonchalantly, "Ah, yes. I first climbed her when I was seven. Lovely one." Respect.
Chad and I earned out Kiwi legs today, and now it's time to celebrate. I shower and Chad goes to work on the most delicious lamb chops imaginable. To this point our dinners have consisted of a variety of our backpacker meals, and gas station pies. Salads are a distant memory for me. This is our first proper dinner, complete with a can of chili beans, a slab of brie on chia seed crackers. All complimented by a Pinot Noir Rose. Bon Apetit! 
That night we eat like kings and sleep like babies.

C'est magnifique!

A meal so gratifying I don't even care about the absence of green on my plate.

Kristie's favorite little cabin in the fiordlands

*Sand flies: Think mosquitos, but worse! They have become Kristie's arch nemesis on this trip. Her legs are eaten up. 40 bites, and counting. A few of the bites have already started scabbing. They are so itchy, she wakes up in the middle of the night scratching furiously. She may actually go batty if the nightly itching doesn't stop.